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1886 bustle era bodice help please!

Hoi guys,

Wondering if anyone could help me out with my issue? I have a costuming meeting with my good friedn after more than a year's pause, and I'd need to put together somethin fairly quickly. I was waiting for this for a long time and would like to give my best. So I thought I'd go with a very simple bustle dress so I picked a pattern I liked and went with it. Wondering if anyone could help me out with my issue? I have a costuming meeting with my good friedn after more than a year's pause, and I'd need to put together somethin fairly quickly. I was waiting for this for a long time and would like to give my best. So I thought I'd go with a very simple bustle dress so I picked a pattern I liked and went with it.

The dress in mind:

And the pattern I used:

I started with a mock-up. I used the super amateur method as I am short on time and would take ages to understand pattern drafting so please keep this in mind.

So I've sewn together everything, and the pattern fit surprisingly well on the front:

Although the back was a disaster so that needed major fixing.

So what I did next was I've marked all the areas where it needed to be amended on the mockup, then re-drawn all the pattern pieces, taken the mockup apart, and redrawn the new pattern pieces on them then sewn them together again. Taken a whole day...

And the result: Perfect back - and a completely changed, baggy front and weird side... the front now is in a weird shape and if I want to get the fit right (Which I obviously do) then I would ned to sew in horizontal darts (definetly do not want) This is marked with the large circle. There is also a weird baggy area on each of the sides, marked with the smaller circles:

But the back at least, is now perfect...

I am out of ideas by now, I've tried to take in, and let out areas, then retaken them in, back and forth, back and fort.. and nothing seems to work. I think I just plainly don't know what causes these, so if someone's out there could they please give me a helping hand? Would be fantastic.

Thanks in advance.

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